Carpet gradually gathers dust, dirt, allergens, grime and other unsavory particles.  If it has been a while since you last replaced your home carpet, it is time for a change.  You will love the look and feel of your new carpet yet getting to this point will take some work.  Thankfully, removing the old carpet and adding new flooring is not as hard as most assume.  Here’s how to do it.



Perform a DIY Tear-out of Your Home Carpet 

There is no sense paying someone else to remove your carpet when you can do it on your own.  Though removing carpet takes some time, it is not as difficult as most anticipate.  Begin by removing all of the furniture.  Vacuum the carpet prior to removing it to decrease the amount of dust, dirt and allergens sent into the air.  Fold the carpet toward the middle of the room.  Use a utility knife to cut the carpet and padding to strips a couple feet in length so they are that much easier to carry outside for disposal.  Keep both hands on the knife at all times to prevent injury.  Vacuum the sub-floor beneath the old carpet and padding. 


Carpet padding is comprised of small sections compared to the actual carpet.  This padding is held in place with staples.  Most padding is connected to wood sub-flooring or a concrete pad.  Thankfully, glue is often used with the concrete pad so removal does not prove egregiously difficult.  Don a pair of gloves to pull out the staples along the outside of the padding.  You can let the tack strips remain on the floor as you will be installing new carpeting.  However, if you  notice any rusted tack strips, it is a sign there was a spill, a leak or another form of moisture exposure.



Installing the new Carpet 

Do not be intimidated by the prospect of installing new carpet.  This really is a DIY type of job.  Begin by measuring the room’s longest walls.  Square yardage can be determined by multiplying the length and width then dividing by 9.  Some advise adding about 10 percent or so to permit for irregularities.  The next step is to clean the area that will be carpeted.  This area should be smooth and void of all dirt and other gunk.  It will help to remove the doors so they do not get in the way while you lay the carpet.  


Use a strip cutter to cut the tackless strips on down to the right size.  Nail these strips half an inche out from the wall.  Epoxy adhesive or masonry tacks are best for carpet added atop a concrete sub-floor.  Position the carpet pad perpendicular to the position the carpet will be placed.  Staple the pad by the tackless strips.  Staple pad seams in an alternating fashion.  Stretch out the padding, pinpoint the tackless strip and cut along the strip edge interior to expose the tacks.  


Roll out the carpeting, notch the sides for the room’s unique length, add three inches to the longest point to be on the safe side and cut the carpet at the notch points.  Roll the carpet with its back facing out so the notches areas appear.  Draw a  line between notches.  Cut the carpet at this line and spread it out in the room. Remove the excess carpet, apply seaming tape with adhesives to connect pieces as appropriate, glue the seams at the carpet edges to form a seam and double check them to ensure they are straight.  Apply seaming tape below the seam with the adhesive side facing upwards.  Heat the seaming iron to the temperature advised by the tape manufacturer.  Let 20 seconds or so pass, move the iron near the tape and press the seam to the glue. Once the pieces connect, add a heavy object on the seam to keep it in place while the glue dries.



The Final Trimming and Carpet Placement 

The next step is to trim around the obstacles in the room.  Use a carpet knife for precision.  Connect the carpet to the tackless strip with a knee kicker.  The knee kicker face should be positioned against the carpet three inches or so out from the wall.  Apply force to the padded end so the carpet can stretch across the tackless strips.  Trim any excess carpet with a wall trimmer to ensure a straight cut.  If necessary, use a stair tool so the cut edges are pressed firmly beneath the baseboard’s trim.